Cross training aka Surfing

What to do when you have been cycling every weekend and commuted in to work twice a week?

Last year we were training for Sellaronda Hero in the Dolomites. 

My friend Nic is a Bible teacher at a Christian School in Kigali, Rwanda. He was enjoying his Summer holiday in the UK. He invited me along for a weekend surfing the weekend before our big race...  

The Husted family booked a holiday home in Croyde Bay, North Devon for a week and I drove with Andrew & Joy, Nic's brother and his wife also friends of mine. We met the rest of the family there on the Friday. Ryan & Sophie friends of Andrew & Joy also joined us. 

 Nic loves surfing and the idea was to hire boards & wetsuits from the local surf shop on the Saturday morning so we could surf all weekend. 

Back at home I wiggled my way into a tight full body wetsuit - what a mission? 

Not knowing how far the beach was from where we stayed I asked Andrew if I should take my plakkies (flip flops). On which he replied, "No-no-no don't take it you want to carry as little as possible as we will be carrying the surfboards down to the beach."

If you have seen or met me you would know I am a mere 5'2" which makes the surfboard almost double my size. We all teamed up & carried our boards down to the beach two-by-two.  

 We messed around on the beach whilst taking photos and during this time Nic announced the one hand rule in the water. If you put your hand up you are admitting that you have wee'ed in your wetsuit. As if any of us would do that & 'that'? We all laughed it off. 

I only learnt to swim properly in 2013 and I've done one surf lesson in 2012 when we took my friend Beatrice for a lesson as part of her kitchen tea. 

Somine, Bee & TC back in December 2011

I'm not sure if it was with confidence or impatience that I ran into the water whilst the others were still giving Sophie tips on the beach. 

As I only learnt to swim the year before I still had in my mind to stay behind the break of the wave. Boy I had to hang onto my board for dear life. I got properly klapped by the waves coming one after the other. So I made my way to more shallow water where Sophie was surfing and doing really well by getting to stand. 

I started managing to catch some waves as well, but unfortunately because I used all my energy to brave the waves at the back I couldn't get myself to standing.   

It wasn't long since I joined Sophie that I realised that I'm moving deeper and deeper into the sea. I've never been in a rip current before so what did I know?

I recognised that maybe I am in one because I an trying to swim to shallow water but wasn't getting anywhere. Sudden panic wanted to come over me when I realised that. I had to pep talk myself by keeping myself calm and deciding that instead of trying to get out I'll just hang onto my board because at least I am floating. I prayed and asked God to keep me calm & protect me. 

I weighed up my options to ask for help. During my brief moment of panic I realised that I couldn't remember the sign for help so getting the life savers to come out were not an option. I also didn't want to draw the attention of the whole massive beach so I looked the other way and thought ok I can't really call Ryan or Andrew I recently met them. So my last option was to call Nic. Only problem was that he was going to think that I wee'd in my wetsuit if I waved at him...!  

Myself, Nic, Andrew, Sophie & Ryan

Plucking all my courage together I shouted across the water, "Niiiiiiiccccc!" Just to the the exact response I expected. Nic looking up pointing and laughing at me. If he was closer to me he would've seen me rolling my eyes and tst-tst at him.

Back to the drawing board and waiting another minute before I screamed "Niiiiicccc" again. This time all three of the guys came swimming towards me. Thank you Lord! 

Ryan managed to get hold of my board and swam to the side with me hanging onto the board. I was so grateful and only really realised afterwards what could've happened.  

 Walking back to the house after our morning of surfing was absolutely painful. I should've never listened to Andrew. Seriously bare foot for over 1km on a sunny day carrying a surfboard... My little soft British feet wasn't used to the harsh warm tar!  

 We went for a high tea at a nearby village in the afternoon.

In the evening Nic wanted to go for another surf. I had enough of surfing for one day, but found a bodyboard in the property's garage. I thought great this must be a safer option. Off we went again, Nic, Andrew, oom Rob & myself. 

The lovely Husted family

It was now high tide and the whole beach was covered with water leaving only a small strip of sand free at the top of the beach. I've never body boarded or body surfed before. That evening was my first time ever...  

 There was another girl in the water and she was catching a lot of waves. I tried to copy her and soon after I went in, I caught that perfect wave and immediately knew what the fuss was about! I suddenly understood the thrill you can get from it! We played/surfed until the sun had set and went back to a home cooked meal by Tannie Sandy.  

 On the Sunday morning we went down to the surf-shop to rent another wetsuit for oom Rob and handed back my surfboard as I was definitely not going yo chance being taken out to see again. 

All oom Rob wanted to do was to stay at home and do his suduko, but we didn't give him a chance to back out of it. 

Getting ready was a dream, my wetsuit glided on like a well fitted glove. I grabbed my bodyboard, put it under my arm and was about to announce smugly that I am ready and waiting for them when Andrew told me to take off my wetsuit and give it to Oom Rob. NOOOO I said, it is mine... Suddenly it made sense why it just slipped on, but stubborn as I am I didn't want to believe him and kept fighting back whilst oom Rob was patiently standing in his jocks waiting for a wetsuit! 

Andrew handed the leftover wetsuit from the washing rail to me and I instantly realised that Sophie was wearing mine and the one I had to wear was a size smaller! NOOOOO! Andrew & Nice were just to happy to stuff me into the wetsuit. I literally stood still whilst Andrew on the left and Nic on the right pulled it on for me. Once you been through that you will either have self-esteem issues or have none left! Andrew commented that it felt like he was making a sausage - thanks! :-)

There were not a lot of surf that day, but we were able to play around a bit before I travelled back to London. It was exactly the type of weekend I needed and hanging out with the Husteds are like hanging out with family! 

Another boost for my self-esteem! 
My brothers from another mother!
Me, Nic & Andrew